Written by Arthur B with ghostwriting by Michael C
It was my first time to the Iron Horse lodge and I wanted to be ready for almost anything. The Iron Horse Lodge is located in the mountains of Western North Carolina. This is a secluded, 39-acre resort on the meandering Stecoah Creek, surrounded by the beauty of the Great Smoky Mountains. The area has some of the best motorcycle riding in the world and the Iron Horse is within minutes of the famous Tail of the Dragon at Deals Gap as well as many other great roads which is why the Long Island BMW Riders take their pilgrimagethere every year!
Friday (5/3)
I spent the night organizing and reorganizing my panniers and top box for the trip to the Iron Horse Lodge. I was determined to have everything organized and not forget a thing. This means packing cubes and everything was separated into “days” so I could easily pull out whatever I needed. I ended up bringing riding jeans and a Kevlar shirt to ride in Monday through Wednesday. This was a good choice as, except for the ride south, the weather was spectacular. Usually the club travels to the Iron Horse in mid April. But that time of year, although it gets into the 70s during the day, it can go down into the 30’s at night. This year a decision was made to push it a couple of weeks into May. This favors us with nighttime temps in the high 40s and daytime temps in the high 70s to low 80s, while still allowing us to ride the roads prior to tourist season starting.
Saturday (5/4)
It was very early morning when the East Enders met at the Dunkin Donuts at exit 58. We were all excited for a long, but fun, trip down south. We then proceeded to meet up with the rest of the group at the Roslyn Dunkin Donuts. The group consisted of Achim F, Arthur B, Harold R, John C, John Z, Mike C and Rob VB. The magnificent seven headed west into Pennsylvania, the firststop being some 150 miles from Roslyn at exit 29B off route 81, Hamburg, PA. This exit has everything you may need to start your trip… Dunkin Donuts for a quick coffee and a bite to eat… Cabelas for any forgotten camping gear or a camelback… Walmart for, well let’s face it, anything… and of course, Cigar International for those who wish to stock up for a smoke around the nightly fire… and of course gas. I always choose Cigar International and it did not disappoint as usual. We quickly loaded up with supplies which for me consisted of 20 or so Drew Estate cigars for the few days we were at the Iron Horse. Yes, that’s right, I bought 20 because I gave out a few to my riding buddies.
As it happens, exit 29B is also the exit for Hermy’s BMW, just 2 miles north of Cabela’s in Port Clinton. As the other club members spoke about previous visits to Hermy’s, I soon found out that this dealership is nothing but a pleasure to visit. This particular Saturday happen to be Hermy’s open house to celebrate the remodeling of their BMW section of the building. They had moved the Triumph bikes into the new portion of the building last year and that enabled them to finalize the BMW section. There was one of every bike, from 300cc to 1600cc, to sit on and dream about. The sale prices on accessories and clothing were not too bad either, and then 15% off those prices was the icing on the cupcake. At least this was the case for Harold who scooped up a nice new Hi-Vis jacket. We realized that after spending time at Dunkin Donuts and an hour plus at Hermy’s that we better get moving as we still had about some 7 hours and 400 miles of riding left to do in the day.
Hanging at Dunkin Donuts
The next stop was uneventful but yes, this being the LIBMWRC, it included food. We had lunch at the Golden Corral in Winchester, VA. I’m was told that the Golden Corral is the club favorite now, as the buffet has something for everyone and unlike the clubs previous favorite, Cracker Barrel, it doesn’t take two hours to get through lunch. We gassed up and set off on the next leg of the trip.
After a couple more hours “slabbing it”, we dropped off 81 at Buchanan and took route 11 a few miles to the Exxon Gas/Burger King. After gassing up, we headed south on route 43 for a few miles to the Blue Ridge Parkway. I had no idea that this would be the start of my love affair with the roads down south.
The Blue Ridge was the last main leg of our trip for the day and it did not disappoint. Rather than stay on the Blue Ridge all the way into Floyd, VA, which was our stop for the night, we got off on route 221. That led us to two fine roads to finish the evening nicely. The first being Daniels Run Road, route 610 and 612, which is a nice meandering road that passed through several towns. It could be equated to many of the Connecticut roads that Louie Cap leads us on. The second, route 615 could only be described as a roller coaster. Not only twisty but the terrain is constantly undulating in elevation. Awesome way to end the day. The only negative was that just before we left the Blue Ridge it started to drizzle. The drizzle continued the last 30 miles into Floyd, VA, but luckily never turned heavy enough for anyone to want to stop and put on rain gear. We knew we were close. I had my Aerostitch R3 Light which left me toasty warm and dry. Although nobody stopped to put on raingear they all had it handy. I’ve heard this has not always been the case with the club rides.
As mentioned, our stop for the night was in Floyd, VA. We stayed at the Oak Haven Lodge. By the time we stopped, checked in and showered the rain had stopped. Rob found this Lodge last year and I can see why it was unanimous to we return. The rooms are spacious and clean. Outside each room are tables and chairs for hanging on the patio (1stfloor) or porch (2ndfloor). Directly across from the Oak Haven Lodge is the Buffalo Mountain Brewerywhich had more than enough choices of lavations for anyone to choose from. It has a country home feeling. The only lacking feature of the brewery is that there is no kitchen. Not to worry. They hired a food truck to setup in the parking lot for the night. The menu included burgers, dogs, sliders and the such. We ordered beers, grabbed some food and then sat on the back porch smoking cigars while a duo, Paul and David, played guitars and sang, just inside the open windows. The owner of the brewery came outside to hang and talk with us for quite a while. When we mentioned Long Island and last year he remembered that the group was there on one weekend and stopped there on the way home the following weekend.
Sunday (5/5)
The morning came too soon, and with it the rain. It was a mild rain but a rain none the less. With this, we suited up for wet and pulled out of the Oak Haven Lodge for the incredibly long, 1.0 mile, ride into town. It’s a small town with literally one traffic light. But the stop at the Blue Ridge Caféfor breakfast was well worth it. Good food at a great price. We were served quick enough and then we were on our way. Did I mention it was raining? Yuk. Double Yuk.
Our original plan was to ride the Blue Ridge south to Boone, NC where we would make a detour north onto route 321 up into Hampton, TN and have lunch at Shirley’s Home Cooking. We would then fuel up and take routes 19E, 173 and 226 south back to the Blue Ridge. Oh well, this route would have to wait till another time. Instead we slabbed it, taking 221 west to 77 south to 40 west.
40 seemed to go on forever. At Asheville we said goodbye to John C as he headed to the airport to pickup his pillion rider, Dana. It would be a couple of days before we saw him again. We also said goodbye to John Z near Asheville, who parted ways to meet up with his childhood buddies, Chris, James and John. They would meet us at the Iron Horse later that day. We also said goodbye to 40, as the rain had stopped and the weather was shaping up.
Near Asheville, we gassed up and jumped on the Blue Ridge Parkway, around mile marker 385, for some relaxing sweepers. And relaxing it was, for about 30 miles. Relaxing until a group of cars, putting along at 40 in a 45, started getting a little crazy with their sightseeing. Anxious to go, we passed a few. Apparently one of them had a grudge against passing over the double yellow, even safely and at reasonable speeds of 50-55 in a 45, and called it in. A few miles down the road, at the Graveyard Fields parking area, one of the coolest cops was waiting. He pulled out and pulled over the four bikes up front. A brief paperwork check, for those four poor souls, and a written warning and we were back on our way.
A Reality Check
We continued on the Blue Ridge, until we exited onto 74 near Balsam, NC. 74 brought us past Bryson City, the last refuge for alcohol before getting to the Iron Horse which resides in a dry county. Luckily we did not have to stop and stock up.
Arriving at the Iron Horse was a pleasure as we were greeted by Frank Bartalotta (GS Rider), our favorite LIBMWRC member from PA. Frank brought with him not only GoPro’s and drones, but beer. What a guy and thus the reason we did not have to stop at Bryson City.
Frank’s RV and trailer setup
Soon after our arrival the Canadian crew, Mike (K16 Rider) and Martin (GS Rider), rolled in. They, like us, had spent two days getting down. Unfortunately their trip was entirely in the rain. Sucks to be a Canadian. After the respective “hellos and how are yas”, we watched as our buddy Ross (GS Rider) from Ohio rolled in. He had a decent day riding but like us had caught some rain in the morning. Ross was first introduced to some of our members at the Finger Lakes Rally last year. We spent some time drinking beer, relaxing and listening to music, around the RV site. It didn’t take long before a nice selection of whiskeys and bourbons was brought out for all to sample.
Cold beers waiting our arrival
Later that night, after a quite decent Iron Horse meal, we gathered around the Iron Horse Fire Pit set behind the Lodge on the gravel “hang out” area. This area is quite comfortable as there are movable seats for around the fire pit as well as lights, tables and chairs along the perimeter. It also happens to border the Stecoah Creek which is an audibly pleasurable addition. Our activities included only drinking, cigars and stories.
The fire pit
One of those stories is always directed at the new guests. It is an interesting story, and quite scary if you are the owners, as to how the custom built fire pit came to be. The story is passed from rider to rider like some kind of tradition, or maybe a warning to behave. As Rob explained it, a group of Marine riders, had gathered and decided to build a fire in what was then the “fire ring”. As the night progressed it seemed that the ring had been too small and was soon swallowed up by larger pieces of wood, and possibly some old chairs and pallets. As the owners returned from a nice evening out they were marveled to see the flames. The odd part is they were standing in front of the building. They flames were reaching above the roofline. It was decided then that a smaller, contained fire pit was necessary for the future, as there were no plans to utilize the Stecoah Fire Department for fire pit duty.
Monday (5/6)
Morning came, and with it much nicer weather.We got on the road and began riding the best roads I have ever been on. Long sweeping curves and breath taking scenery made every route we took an absolute pleasure. Special thanks to the senior Club members for putting so much work into preparing and leading the rides.
The ride chosen for this day was unanimous. NC143/TN165 it would be. This is also known as The Cherohala Skyway. This road has breathtaking views as it winds its way across the upper peaks of the mountain range on its way from Robbinsville, NC to Tellico Plains, TN.
A view from the Cherohala
As we drew close to the end of the Cherohala we made a slight detour down River Road. This road is a casual 25-30 mph ride following alongside and crisscrossing the Tellico River. After 6.2 miles you come to a bridge that spans the intersection where the Bald River drops some 90 feet over the Bald River Falls and merges into the Tellico River. These 90 foot waterfalls are a perfect photo opportunity. After the sightseeing photos and drone shots are complete we backtracked the 6.2 miles back to the Cherohala where we continued west towards Tellico Plains.
Bald river Falls
Our destination for lunch would have been (Plan A) the Tellico Grains Bakeryin Tellico Plains but it was known that it is closed on Monday. Thus, we chose to check out a new joint (Plan B) that Rob found on Facebook, The Iron Works Grill. Well, wouldn’t you know it; this place was also closed on Mondays. On to (Plan C) the last place we saw open. It was only back about a mile or so. The Tellico Beach Drive In it would be. It’s your typical order at the window and sit down at picnic tables to eat. Burgers and Fries. All was well again.
Getting Grub
Our return plan was to do the same route in reverse but leave it to the Canadians to change things up. Martin had never been to The Tail of Dragon at Deals Gap and so we adjusted our route. We road most of the Cherohala back towards the Iron Horse but made a left and headed north on Joyce Kilmer Road. This road is twisty and has plenty of elevation changes as it makes its way to toward 129 and the base of The Dragon. It was upon this road that I was introduced to the worst brand new pavement you could ever come across. Tar and chip. I’m having puckering flashbacks as I write this. The pavement looks and feels great right up until the leaders, Mike and Rob, let out a string of obscenities giving just enough time to slow it down. Not that we were going fast but that newly chipped pavement left a lot of dust behind and these bikes love to slip and slide on it. Think black ice. I know they are thanking BMW for traction control.
The tail of the dragon (US129)
Alas, we arrived at the base of The Dragon. We rested a few minutes and prepared for The Dragon.We left Deals Gap after a brief warning from Mike to be especially cautious as the curves really sneak up on you. I took the first time through slowly but ran it much faster the second time and it was absolutely amazing. This road really sticks out on my head as something to remember.After The Dragon it was southbound on the northernmost portion of Moonshine 28, back to the Iron Horse. Moonshine 28 to me was the most fun. Long sweeping turns with very few straight portions left me speechless. The next time I’m at The Dragon I will definitely spend more time on 28.
First time at Deals Gap
Slaying the Dragon
After riding a major portion of the 11 miles of The Dragon, we pulled off onto a rest area to regroup. The rest area also has a great view of the Calderwood Dam
The rest area
Calderwood Dam
After The Dragon it was back to the Iron Horse for a quick rest. Some of the group stayed at the Iron Horse but others headed over to Bryson City for some dinner and drinks at the Nantahala Brewing Company. It was there they met up with Michael’s friend Lee who drove up from Moncure, NC. Leee is also an avid BMW rider. After dinner they made their way back to the Iron Horse for a repeat of the previous nights activities.
Tuesday (5/7)
It was a beautiful morning and we got a halfway decent start to the day. Our decision was to head south on Moonshine 28 into Highlands, NC. This is a great ride with a great destination. Many return riders claim that the 23 miles of Moonshine 28, south from the Iron Horse to Franklin, NC, is one of the best roads in the area. Thankfully as we headed further south to our stop at Bridal Veil Falls it was revealed that the next 16 miles, which shares its route with 64, was just as wonderful. Then it was just a short blast into Highlands.
Moonshine 28 (North to the left)
Bridal Veil Falls
Bridal Veil Falls
Highlands is a small quaint town with all to see posed along a half mile of Main Street. All the shops, cafes, bakeries and restaurants that line each side of the road are separated by a wide road with diagonal parking, in the middle, accessible from either side. Our chosen lunch spot was all the way at the end. The club had found it last year and decided it was perfect for a return. Mountain Fresh Groceryis just that, a grocery store. Ah, but so much more. Along one full side and part of the back wall are ordering stations for several different types of foods. Sandwiches, Chinese food, pizza, soups, and more. Check it out using this link Mountain Fresh Pictures. Our ride back was the same route in reverse. Awesome. Quick stop at Walmart in Franklin for some essential snacks and beers and then back to the Iron Horse. Shortly after our arrival, John and Dana rode in from Asheville. Finally, the entire group was together.
Wednesday (5/8)
It was yet another beautiful day. As with the previous days, the temps had risen to the high 70s, low 80s. The decision for the day was to ride the “Smokey Mountain Loop”. This 150 mile, 4.5 hour loop is some of the best riding to the north of the Iron Horse. It starts with 28 winding north past Fontana Dam to 129 at the base of The Dragon. After cruising thru The Dragon with Superbike skills we continued north on 129 until we made a right onto one of Rob’s favorite roads, The Foothills Parkway. This lovely 17 mile stretch of road is relaxing and stunning at the same time. The views are breathtaking. The Foothills Parkway ends at 321. We headed east on 321 until we got to Little River Gorge, a twisting, winding, wrist bending road that follows, you guessed it, the Little River. This road dumps you out just south of Gatlinburg, where we stopped at Calhoun’sfor some Tennessee BBQ. After a quick bite to eat the crew split up. Some wanted to take a walk thru town to check it out, as Gatlinburg is a big tourist attraction, where as others wanted to take a siesta under the closest tree.
Outside Calhoun’s
Within a half hour or so, we were back on the road and heading south on 441. This is a must do road if you are in the area. It winds its ways south into the Great Smokey Mountains National Park. Just as 441 passes back into North Carolina we turned off into the tourist attraction known as Clingmans Dome. With an elevation of 6,643 feet (1.25 miles), Clingmans Dome is both the tallest mountain of the Great Smoky Mountains and the highest point along the Appalachian Trail.
The 7.0 mile ride up Clingmans Dome Road is awesome. It has simple and slow curves that meander up the mountain paralleling the Appalachian Trail. It’s the kind of road you can set your cruise control on 40 and just ride it out. After parking at the top parking area several riders started the 0.5 mile walk up to the observation tower. The rest of the riders remained around the parking lot area. Those that went to the top said that it was worth the hike. The ride down Clingmans Dome Road was even better than the ride up as we knew what to expect.
The brave few who made the climb
The view from the top
The smart few, or their bikes, who did not climb
We continued south on 441 until we reached the Cherokee Indian Reservation. A quick stop at Dairy Queen in Cherokee was definitely warranted, for as you all know… If it’s DQ, Harold buys for the group. Thanks Harold!
A bear attack!
From Dairy Queen it was route 19 west which turns into/shares itself with 74, putting us on the southern leg of the loop. A think a few riders stopped in Bryson City for supplies. I don’t fully recall.
We then ended the loop with the usual 19/74 to 28 to the Iron Horse.
What did we do that night you ask? You guessed it, the same as the other nights.
You cannot get enough of the Fire Pit!
Thursday (5/9)
Hello rest and relaxation. Well, maybe not for all of us. It wouldn’t be a LIBMWRC trip if someone didn’t need to put a tire on because they “thought there would be enough tread to make it”. This time around it was Harold on his K1600GTLe. Boy does he get mad if you leave out the “e” for Exclusive. It had eaten thru the Metzler in 2/3 the mileage it should have. He took a quick trip over to Wheeler’s where they set him up with a nice new tire.
Proof positive!
There was no real riding today. We knew all would be a long days ahead. Instead, we relaxed in the morning and headed over to Bryson City for a comfort food lunch, at Jimmy Mac’s Restaurant.
Lunch at Jimmy Mac’s
Did they choose Hammocks based on shirt color?
Once again said goodbye to John C, who along with his pillion, Dana, headed toward Nashville, TN for some alone time. Oh, how sweet. Yuk. We would not see him again until we were back on Long Island. I started the long ride home, as I had to be home for Saturday morning. As for the rest or the story, take it away Mike.
Friday (5/10)
Morning found the remaining five Long Islanders beginning the ride home (Achim F, Harold R, John Z, Mike C and Rob VB). As always, the goal was to get at least as far as Roanoke, VA, so that the following day would be a short one. Goodbyes were said to Frank B from PA, Ross form OH and the Canadians, Mike and Martin. (Slightly out of chronological order but, they all made it home safely.)
The ride north was, for the most part, all on major highways. We made up to Staunton, VA where we stayed at an Econo Lodge. We had dinner at beers just a couple doors down at Chili’s. The waitress, Brittney, was a very competent young lady who was nice enough to turn us on to a better place to eat and drink next time we are in that area. The Blue Mountain Breweryin Afton, VA would surely be one of our future stops.
Saturday (5/11)
The day started as a fairly decent riding day. We made good time with little traffic from Staunton, VA all the way to our favorite exit in PA, 29B (Cabela’s). We stopped for gas and the longest quick bite to eat, at a Wendy’s, anyone has ever had to endure. It took forever to get our food ordered and delivered.
The only negative, between Staunton, VA and the Verrazano Bridge, was when one of John Z’s saddlebag lids fell off. It was a short roadside stop while he pulled a U-turn and grabbed it. Some damage but still functional.
Das Pannier
From that point forward it was smooth riding all the way to the Verrazano Bridge. Harold decided to take the upper level when everyone else took the lower. Just as the bridge emptied onto the Belt Parkway we hit stand still traffic. As has already been recounted at the breakfast meetings, this is when it took an hour to go about 5 miles as we were subjected to one of the NYC motorcycle checkpoints where they had all four lanes of traffic funneled into one lane. Perfect idea for a Saturday afternoon. NOT. Enough said. A giant load of unjustifiable BS.
Well we all made it home safe. That’s what counts!
Sunday (5/12)
Oh, that’s right, the story is over. Or is it? Y’all forgot about or boy John C who had been chillin out in Nashville for a few days. Didn’t you? Well he kicked the dirt off his boots and dropped Dana off at the airport. He then started his +/- 970 mile ride home. He was determined to do it in one shot. A pretty bold move considering the weather up and down the east coast was horrible for most of the day. In order for the trip to count even more, he decided to push himself and ride the extra 30 miles further east than he lives. It was there that he gassed up and obtained the last receipt needed as proof of his accomplishment. Congrats John on your “Saddle Sore 1000” (1,000 miles in 24 hours). Perhaps he will tackle the next task. The “Bun Burner 1500” (1,500 miles in 36 hours).
The End